This is amongst the longest and my most memorable trips in the Himalayas. Ever since I did the Kailash Mansrovar Yatra 1998, my tent mate Jayant Doshi and me were planning this trip. It eventually happened in July 2001. Spread over about 23 days our travel schedule was –

1. Mumbai to Jammu/Katra by train.
2. Jammu to Dalhousie by train/taxi. Saw Dalhousie, Chamba Valley and Khajjar.
3. Dalhousie to Mcleodganj by taxi. Saw Kangra Valley and around as well.
4. Mcleodganj to Manali/Rohtang Pass.
5. Next stop was Keylong in Lahaul Valley.
6. From there to Kaza in Spiti Valley.
7. To Kalpa and Sangla.
8. Took a twenty three hour bus drive from Kalpa to Hardwar.
9. Rishikesh to Govindghat the base camp for Valley of Flowers.
10. From there to Badrinath.
11. Last stop was Kedarnath returned to Rishikesh.
12. Took Shatabdi Express from Hardwar to Delhi and train to Mumbai.

Between Jayant and me we spent about Rs 18,000/ per head. Jayant was from London and could not believe that we spent so less. It is not that we compromised in any way. We travelled by taxi and bus and stayed at budget hotels that were amazingly clean as well.

We took a train from Jammu to Chakhibank and a taxi from there to Dalhousie. Reached about 4ish. We were lucky to find a hotel in the main market place, big rooms Rs 1000/ for a double room. Before that we drove around the town and checked out various hotels. The place is very green, we just loved it. There was a slight nipp in the air. Dalhousie is 2036 metres above sea level.

We got out for a walk about 5ish. We walked around the market place and then downhill to see Hindi film shooting. Enroute we saw a hotel where Subhash Chandra Bose had spent a few days. My legs were still aching. I could not do the climb up to the market so we had to hire a taxi. I was truly embarrassed at my state – an avid trekker like me was down after one trip to Vaishnudevi.

By about 7 we were back in the market place. We had dinner and then started planning for the next day. We decided to go to Chamba Valley and Khajjar supposed to be the Indian Switzerland. There were a number of private Maruti van taxis there. We haggled with one of them, quite a likeable Pahadi guy.

The next morning we were ready to go by 7.30am. As we got out of the hotel the main market was full of monkeys. We decided to walk down to Subhash Chowk before leaving. It is about a 15-20 minute walk around a hill i.e. very green. We came across a number of monkey’s enroute. The chowk has a statute of Subhash Chandra Bose.

We left for Chamba Valley. It is about a two hour drive from Dalhousie. We stopped enroute and got a picture post card view of Bhadrakali Lake and Chamera Dam. Our driver told us that the dam was a favourite for Hindi film shootings. Due to shortage of time we did not go to the dam but were content with an overview.

All through the drive I remembered filmmaker Subhash Ghai who has made Chamba valley very popular through his movies. Chamba is a valley so at a much lower height (996 metres) as compared to Dalhousie. Chamba town was founded by King Sahilvarman.

Our first stop was Shri Chamunda Devi Temple i.e. made in all wood (10th century a.d.). You can drive up to the temple or walk up the steps. I saw an all wood temple for the first time. There are wooden carvings inside the temple and number of ghantis (bells). From the temple top got an excellent view of a cricket ground and clicked a match in progress.

Our next stop was the Lakshmi Narayan Temple Complex. It is built in Shikhara style,10-11th century a.d. Right to left are the Lakshminarayan, Radhakrishnan and Chandragupta temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu, Vishnu and Shiva in that order. There are Lakshmi Damodar, Trilokinath and Gaurishankar temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu, Shiva, Shiva in that order.

We had lunch in the main market, saw a local museum and left for Khajjar. It is about an hour’s drive. Khajjar is very beautiful, is a green top surrounded by trees. It reminded Jayant of Switzerland. It has meadows all around. Found people relaxing, playing cricket, having horse ride, running around.

I loved the place. Felt out of this world and did not want to leave. HP Tourism runs a resort there. If time permitted would have loved to spend a night there. We took a horse ride and saw some apple orchards.

We left Khajjar at about 5.30ish. It was about to get dark. All through the drive to Dalhousie we could hear wild animals roaring. I was a bit scared but our driver assured me not to worry.

We reached by 7.30ish, were tired, had dinner and went to bed. The next morning we took the same taxi to Mcleodganj a 2-3 three drive.

The next time round would like to spend atleast 3 days in Dalhousie/Khajjar.