This is amongst the longest and my most memorable trips in the Himalayas. Ever since I did the Kailash Mansrovar Yatra 1998, my tent mate Jayant Doshi and me were planning this trip. It eventually happened in July 2001. Spread over about 23 days our travel schedule was –
1. Mumbai to Jammu/Katra by train.
2. Jammu to Dalhousie by train/taxi. Saw Dalhousie, Chamba Valley and Khajjar.
3. Dalhousie to Mcleodganj by taxi. Saw Kangra Valley and around as well.
4. Mcleodganj to Manali/Rohtang Pass.
5. Next stop was Keylong in Lahaul Valley.
6. From there to Kaza in Spiti Valley.
7. To Kalpa and Sangla.
8. Took a twenty three hour bus drive from Kalpa to Hardwar.
9. Rishikesh to Govindghat the base camp for Valley of Flowers.
10. From there to Badrinath.
11. Last stop was Kedarnath returned to Rishikesh.
12. Took Shatabdi Express from Hardwar to Delhi and train to Mumbai.
Between Jayant and me we spent about Rs 18,000/ per head. Jayant was from London and could not believe that we spent so less. It is not that we compromised in any way. We travelled by taxi and bus and stayed at budget hotels that were amazingly clean as well.
The taxi drive from Dalhousie to Mcleodganj was picturese to say the least. We saw practice of terrace farming enroute. Mcleodganj is at a height of 1770 metres. It is on a hill whose base is Dharamshala. Basically when Dalai Lama came to India they must have asked for an exclusive area where the Tibetans could settle down. Dharamshala always existed. I think the Govt of India gave them the area above it which is known as Mcleodganj. There is a Tibetan Govt in exile here, a school of Tibetan studies, a Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts.
We saw a number of foreigner’s esp. Israelis. We met a number of Israelis here; in fact the menu had a number of Israeli dishes. One of the students told us that the Israelis whom we see are mostly students who came to India for a holiday after completing their mandatory military training.
The town has a number of hotels to suit every budget. We were lucky to find a hotel about 5 minutes from the main market run by one Mr Sharma. It was a small hotel with clean rooms that also gave us a great view of the hills below. Cost was Rs 750/ for a double room.
After checking in we began discovering the market place. Jayant saw a continental food restaurant that we decided to check out. Menu was also in Israeli. We were amongst the few Indians there. After lunch we went sight seeing. It started drizzling; our wind sheeters came in handy.
The first place we saw was the Tibet Museum. It is a Memorial dedicated to the 1.2 million Tibetans who died as a result of Chinese occupation. The museum has pictures that show the Chinese assault into Tibet. There is a main hall in the Dalai Temple Complex. Monks sit here and chant slokhas. There is a huge icon of Lord Buddha inside the hall, a must see. Just below that is Dalai Lama’s seat, a huge chair more like a throne. In the complex is also a modern day Gurukul for Buddhist monks. We saw Dalai Lama’s home from outside as well.
Next to Lord Buddha icon are a collection of texts called Kagyur, translations of the actual teachings of Buddha. These 100 volumes translated from Sanskrit are the authentic teachings of Buddha himself and contain the whole collection of sutras and tantras.
Another cupboard has a collection of texts called Tangyur, translation of the commentaries of Buddha by late Indian Masters. The 225 volumes translated mostly from Sanskrit, contains work on Buddhist philosophy, grammar, logic, poetry, art, astronomy, medicine etc.
Outside the main hall is a Mana Prayer Wheel. It is filled with thousands of Avalokiteshwara mantras “Om Mani Padme Hum”. By turning this wheel once one earns merit equal to the reciting of the mantras filled inside the wheel to be turned clockwise. May all beings find Peace and Happiness.
As we walked around the market place we saw a Tibetan school and Tibetan women weaving carpets inside a Cooperative.
At about 4ish we walked to Bhagsunath Temple i.e. about 2 kms away. It is a Shiv temple. There is a fresh water spring as well. Another 1km trek from there takes you a waterfall. It is an enjoyable and easy trek.
Cannot remember when but we also visited the Dal Lake 2kms from Mcleodganj. It is a nice walk but the lake per say was not impressive. It is surrounded by Deodar forests.
We had a good nights sleep. The next day we hired a taxi to visit Kangra Valley. Left at about 7.30am and were back by 5ish. Had a bath and then caught the 7pm overnight bus to Manali.
