Just a few hours away from the coastal districts of North and South Kanara, lies the forested Nilgiri hill region Coorg with its capital Medikere. Famed for its cool climate, fragrant spice gardens and colourful, handsome people, Coorg is the home of Dakshina Ganga, as the River Kaveri is called….

By Vimla Patil

There is no doubt that the Ganga, as the largest and holiest river system of India, impacts every aspect of our life. Its mythology, history, spirituality and economic importance overrides that of every other river. Its iconic presence forms the backbone of the culture and the very identity of India. As pundits say, “Ganga is India and India is Ganga!”

Perhaps this is why Indians have a need to recreate the Ganga scenario whenever and wherever they wish to venerate a river. No wonder then that Kaveri, peninsular India’s biggest river, is called Dakshnia Ganga. Rising in Tala Kaveri in the Coorg hills, Kaveri flows through the Nilgiri Hills eastwards to meet the Bay of Bengal near Chidambaram, the famous temple town where Shiva Nataraj dances in the thousand pillared hall. Chidambaram is considered the centre of the universe and Shiva, the dancer, dances here, balancing the galaxies and planets in his flowing hair. This icon of Shiva is present in all our artistic activities.

But the origin of Kaveri is equally interesting and wrapped in myths that are fascinating. The people of Coorg, who consider Kaveri as the holiest river of the area, believe that the river is an incarnation of Goddess Parvati who appeared in the hills as a river to bless the land with plentitude and prosperity. Kaveri supplies water to the fields and plantations of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu and brings riches to its lands. The people further believe that every year, during the Tula Sankraman or when the sun enters the Libra zodiacal sign, the river reappears when the springs at Tala Kaveri gush forth to recreate the scene of her appearance eons ago.

Tala Kaveri lies about 75 kms away from the headquarter town of Medikeri in Coorg. Nearer to this spice and resort town is the grand sight of the Abbey Falls on the Kuttipole rivulet, which later meets the Hattihole to jointly confluence with the Kaveri. The road to Tala Kaveri is lined with shops selling forest honey and spices like cardamoms and black pepper grown on the slopes of the Nilgiris. A little detour takes you to Bhagamandala, where the young Kaveri forms the Triveni Sangam with Kannike and the invisible Sujyoti. This sangam is as sacred to the people of South India as is the one in Prayag where the Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati meet. Lakhs of devotees come to Bhagamandala to take a holy dip or to perform the last rites of their dead ancestors. In Bhagamandala, the youthful Kaveri is clean, sprightly and has an engaging personality.

Further up in the hills, sweeping steps and a promenade lead to the elegantly built pond where the first water of Kaveri comes as a spring. Devotees collect the water in bottles to take home with them as a memento for those who could not make the pilgrimage. The water is sweet and fresh and the little temple to Goddess Kaveri above the tank is a delight to watch. Every year, lakhs of people come here to pay their obeisance to the river goddess and pray for plentiful harvests, peace and happiness in the country. Kaveri is counted among the seven holy rivers of India and has been the subject of poetry, literature and many religious stotras and mantras. A visit to the river’s origin is refreshing and memorable.

Long Live Sanatan Dharam

Email feedback to: vimla@vimlapatil.com

January 2008