Small, forested coastal belts though they are, North and South Kanara are ‘home’ to two of India’s greatest spiritual seers – Adi Shankaracharya and Madhvacharya, authors respectively of the Advaita and Dvaita streams of philosophy. Today, their legacy reaches almost every corner of the world! The heritage sites and temples these seers created and natural wonders that dot this verdant seasude landscape recreate the golden history of the region!
By Vimla Patil
Most people go to North or South Kanara to enjoy the long-stretching beaches with virgin sands and mangrove forests. In recent decades, since tourists discovered the endless beaches lined with forests in these seaside districts, huge complexes of resorts have sprung up along the coast. But more than for pleasure, South and North Kanara districts of Karnataka should be recognized for their contribution to our culture, spirituality and literature. These districts have been home to some of India’s greatest seers, spiritual masters and literary giants.
Take South Kanara. With Mangalore as the headquarters, one can travel around and discover heritage temples and sites that will make us proud of the teachings of great masters. Udipi, the town more known for dosas and idlis, is truly the centre of the Vaishnav path of philosophy. It is the centre of Madhvacharya’s teachings of Dvaita stream of philosophy. Madhvacharya is counted amongst the greatest thinkers of India and the temple of Krishna which he established in Udipi is the place where lakhs of devotees converge every year to celebrate his teachings.
The temple has its story to tell. Legend says that the icon of Krishna, covered with sandalwood, was mistakenly put into a boat by a seafarer and brought to the port called Malpe near Mangalore. Facing a storm, he navigated his ship towards the coast and Madhvacharya, doing penance in the area, helped him by controlling the storm with his spiritual power. The seaman offered any content of the boat to the master as an offering and Madhva chose the sandalwood covered statue of Krishna which he established in the Udipi temple in the 13th century. The temple has a Rath Yatra and the Kanakakindi, a small window from which Krishna is said to have given darshan to his devotee Kanakadasa (who could not enter the temple as he belonged to a low caste) by turning around in the temple to face his devotee. The Udipi temple has eight maths each with a head swami. Every two years, each math gets a turn to perform the pooja in the temple according to the rules of the trust today. This ‘handing over’ ceremony by one math to the next is called Paryayautsava and is a big event at the temple, attended by huge crowds. Other festivals like Sankranti, Holi etc are also celebrated with great pomp and pageantry. The Rathotsava when the golden chariot of Krishna is brought out in procession is yet another grand occasion.
The Krishna temple in Udipi remains one of the greatest centres of Vaishnava philosophy in India and is visited by lakhs of followers through the year. The highly decorated idol is one of the most beautiful among Krishna temples in India.
Kollur is yet another sacred place of pilgrimage in South Kanara – the Mookambika temple here has attracted lakhs of devotees for the ornate and impressive poojas held during Navaratri. It is said that Adi Shankaracharya himself consecrated the icon of Durga in this temple. In more recent times, M G Ramachandran, the Tamil superstar and ex chief minister of Tamil Nadu bestowed the goddess Amba in this temple with a gold sword and jewellery. The resplendent idol stands in the sanctum with historic glory and is worshipped with great pageantry. The temple environs are famous for artifacts that go with the legend of the Devi and the famous Shivalinga in front of her. Shivalingas of crystal and stone as well as beautiful icons of the Amba are available for devotees. Tradition says that the temple is one of seven holy places set up by Parashurama when he reclaimed the land around Gomantaka for saving Brahmins from the wrath of the Kshatriyas. This is where Saraswat Brahmins came when they were driven out of Kashmir and surrounding areas after the expeditions of the Moghuls and Islamic rulers. Most Saraswat communities have thereafter settled in what is known as Parashuram Kshetra – covering Goa and South and North Kanara districts in Karnataka.
Among the great temples of North Kanara is the best known Mahabaleshwara temple near to the famous Om Beach in Gokarna. A town hallowed by the story of the atmalinga of Shiva, it is a famous pilgrimage place for millions every year during Shivaratri. The town also boasts ancient maths of the Saraswat community and their Swami Parampara. The Bhadrakali Temple, the Venkataramana Temple are other shrines visited by pilgrims. The story of the Mahabaleshwara Temple is however unique. It is said the Ravana, the king of Lanka, persuaded Lord Shiva to give him the atmalinga of the Lord after long and hard penance and the gods were worried about the consequences of this generosity when the atmalinga would be misused by the demon king. They deputed Ganesha to get it back from the demon as the condition of the gift was that Ravana would never put it down on the ground while taking it to his kingdom in Lanka. Ganesha took the form of a cowherd and offered to hold the linga while Ravana went around clean himself and have a bath. Calling out hurriedly to him three times, Ganesha put down the Linga which became rooted in the ground and could not be taken out. Ravana, in a rage, twisted off seven pieces of the Linga and scattered them in the surrounding areas, creating the seven Shiva temples in the area that are called Murudeshwar, Dhareshwar etc. The main temple of Mahabaleshwara is however, the most celebrated and stands on the seashore of Gokarna. Archeologically, it is dated to the 11th century AD. Once in twelve years, the Bandhas or the golden cover on the Linga here is removed for ceremonies and this pageant attracts lakhs of devotees.
The Om Beach, discovered by tourists in recent decades has hills jutting out into the sea with sweet water streams in them. It is said that Ram, Sita and Lakshman lived here during their vanvas and created the sweet water fountains for their use. The hill is therefore called Ramtirth. The cave, shaped like a cow’s ear, is the reason why the holy town is called Gokarna, literally meaning cow ear! The Jatayu Tirth is one more wonder of Nature here – in the middle of the rocks in the sea, a red fluid keeps dripping from the crevices, giving rise to the legend that Jatayu was killed here by Ravana while abducting Sita to Lanka.
Gokarna is a historic place worth a long visit with its many wonderful shrines and beaches.
If one is looking for natural wonders, the Jog Falls in these districts are a sight for sore eyes. The river Sharavathi jumps over rocks that stand almost 900 ft and the view of the cascading waters is heavenly. The Karnataka government is presently building a resort on the other wide of the hill for tourists who can have their fill of the view of the river sitting over a ledge. There are steps for
adventurous tourists who wish to experience the magical spray that turns the water into a rainbow of magnificent colours!
To see pictures Click here
Email feedback: vimla@vimlapatil.com
Long Live Sanatan Dharam
January 2008