• Here is a day by day account of 11 day trip covering Jammu, Basholi, Akhnoor, Rajouri, Poonch, Mughal Road, Verinag, Sinthan Pass, Kishtwar and Patnitop. Worth visiting.

When I visited Kashmir Valley in 1988, I was told to visit the Jammu region too. The dream came true in 2014 October. Friends said Jammu region is nicer to visit though it has more of driving in the hills since it is not a Valley.

Jammu Region has friendly people and beauty is diverse. It needs to be aggressively promoted as a tourist destination.

The route we took was Jammu and around, Rajouri, Poonch, via Mughal road to Anantnag, to Kishtwar via Sinthan Top, Bhadarwah, Patnitop and Jammu. We drove approximately 1800 km through good, stone or mud roads, snow and water streams, all in a 2005 model Tata Indica that did well.

Day wise travel

Day 1 Jammu sight-seeing for half a day.

Day 2 Mansar Lake (8 am to 1.30pm) and Jammu sight-seeing.

Day 3 Early morning Jammu sight-seeing. Drove to Basholi and. Night Samba.

Day 4 Went to Purmandal, drove to Reasi, another 30 kms to see the world’s highest railway bridge being made.

Day 5 Akhnoor Fort and Shiv-Khori Cave. Night Nowshera.

Day 6 Day at Rajouri, reached Poonch by 5 pm. Night Poonch.

Day 7 Poonch sight-seeing and night at Budha Amarnath Mandir near Poonch.

Day 8 Left Mandir at 10 am for Surankote, then Mughal Road. Reached Anantnag via Shopian at 4.30 pm. Night Verinag.

Day 9 Left Verinag about 8.30 am, via Sinthan Pass reached Kishtwar by 4 pm.

Day 10 Local Kishtwar, left post lunch reached Bhadarwah by 6 pm.

Day 11 Left Bhadarwah by 1.30 pm for Jammu, via Patnitop and took diversion enroute for Sudh Mahadev Mandir to reach Jammu by 10 pm. We could not visit Patnitop as planned. Next morning took flight.

For details of what we saw in each place read on.

1. JAMMU   (City of Temples)

Shri Ranbireshwar Mandir.

Shri Raghunathji Mandir (Shri Ram), Shri Ranbireshwar Mandir (Shivji), Panjvaktra Mahadev Mandir (must experience), Peer Kho Mandir (Gorknath cave) must see, Panjthirthi (5 temples close to each other), Dau Temple (Balaram), Gurudwara Sh Guru Nanak Devji has 3 feet marble image of Guru Nanak.

All these are quite close to one another. Raghunathji Mandir is in the local market in old Jammu area – market worth a visit.  

Panjvaktra Mahadev Mandir is one of the oldest temples where the lingam appears in self-manifest form (Aap Shambhu). According to local tradition Adi Shankracharya stayed here during his visit to Jammu. As per literary sources Guru Nanak too visited this place during the period of his second Udasi in 1514. When king of Jammu Raja Khokhar Dev visited Guru Nanakji and urged instructions/blessings, the Nanak Dev expounded a course of ‘Raj Dharma’. The historic Ber tree under which the discourse appears to have been delivered still stands and is highly worshipped.

According to Shiva Rahasya the Panjvaktra or the five faced Shivji is the prime cause of the entire creation. Mahadeva is seen in five aspects: Rudra, Aghora, Vamdeva, Tat Purusha and Ishana. They also represent his five Mahabhutas or elements. In Jammu region, worship of Panchmukhi Mahadev seems to have been in vogue since early times. Panjvaktra Mahadeva is also called Sacchand Bhairav in Kashmir Shaivism.

It is believed that the five faces of Mahadeva represent the five Chakras. It is also called Rupaiye Wala Mandir since the courtyard was decorated with silver coins which are embedded in the floor. The temple was also known as Samadhi Muth due to presence of large number of Samadhis of Mahants who had served temple in the past. The oldest is attributed to Naga Baba of Dashnami Akhara who had sat on a Zinda Samadhi here some one thousand years ago.

Also see Rani Kalhuri Dev Mandir, Sardaran Mandir, Shri Shivnabh Temple (inside Mandi complex) and ancient Shiv Temple Sunjwan.

Visit Bahu Fort, in it is Bawey Wali Mata shrine ie one of the most important Shakti shrines in the region, see lovely garden at entrance of fort and close by is Har-Ki-Temple complex nice.

View of river Tawi and Jammu city from fort.  

Amar Mahal Jammu

Also see Amar Mahal Palace, Mubarak Mandi Palace & Dogra Art Museum. Amar Mahal has a nice museum. Art Museum is part of Mandi palace complex.  

To see pictures of Jammu City

2. Close to Jammu

Mansar Lake  

Mansar and Surinsar Lake is linked to the Mahabharata. Visit Nag Devata Mandir there. Distance about 60 kms from Jammu. Keep 4-5 hours. Lovely Government Resort in Mansar Lake – perfect place to relax after Vaishnudevi Yatra. There is a lovely walk way around the lake. Newly-weds consider it auspicious to do parikrama of Mansar Lake and seeks blessings of Sheshnag at temple i.e. on banks of Mansar lake. 

To see pictures of Mansar Lake

Purmandal (40 kms away) it is known as Chotta Kashi.

Purmandal

It is situated on the banks of the sacred mostly underground Devak River and is a complex of ancient temples.

To see album on Purmandal 

Missed seeing

1. Vaishnudevi.

2. Aghar Jitto is 6 kms from Katra, a cool and scenic spot. It derives its name from Baba Jitto, a revolutionary folk hero who is remembered for his campaign against the feudal system to improve the condition of fellow farmers.

3. 11kms from Katra on the Reasi road in Baba Dhansar, an enchanting spot with a spring of cool water Karua Jheel. Inside a small cave is a naturally formed Shivling perennially bathing in droplets of water falling upon it.

4. Dera Baba Banda is a gurudwara 25 kms from Katra on the banks of the river Chenab, sad I missed it. It is named after Baba Banda Bairagi who was Guru Govind Singh’s favourite Saint-soldier. The Gurudwara is famous for its rich wall paintings and 48 feet high ‘Nishan Sahib’ made of deodhar wood erected by the Baba himself. 

5. 10 kms from Reasi is Sihard Baba becoming popular for its nearly 400 feet high cascading waterfall and ancient Pragan Nag Mandir.

3. Basholi

Maharaja Ranjit Sagar Dam i.e. built on River Ravi enroute to Basholi.  

Basohli, approximately 160 km from Jammu, is well known for a style of painting characterised by vigorous use of primary colours and a peculiar facial formula that prevailed in the 17^th and 19^th centuries in the foothills of the western Himalayas.

It is from here that this style spread to Chamba and Kangra. We met with members of Vishwasthali, a social and cultural organisation that is striving to keep the tradition alive by teaching young children about the local culture.

To see pictures of Basohli Paintings

4. Reasi

From Purmandal we left around 1 pm, drove to Katra, then Reasi 30 kms ahead and another 30 odd kms to see the highest rail bridge in the world.

Two poles of the railway bridge. In 2024 the arch is ready.  

At Reasi saw Zorawar Singh Fort (small fort not worth a visit).

Fort from a distance. 

The drive from Katra onwards is very scenic, saw some dams enroute.

That evening it was adventure all the way. We left at about 5.15 pm to reach Jammu by about 9.30 pm.

To see pictures of Reasi and beyond

5. Akhnoor

It is about 30 kms from Jammu. See Fort, Pandava Cave, Gurdwara all on the banks of the river Chenab.

It was at the Jip-Patha temple on the banks of the Chenab that Maharaja Gulab Singh was coronated by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1822. Excavations have revealed remains dating back to the Indus Valley Civilization inside the fort.

Coronation of Maharaja Gulab Singh. 

The town is famously associated with folk dance of Soni & Mahiwal. Keep two hours max.

To see pictures of Akhnoor

6. Shiv Khori Cave

Walking up to the cave. 

It is one of the most venerated cave-shrines of Shivji. Drive is scenic and took about 1 to 1.5 hours from Akhnoor. This holy cave is nearly 100 metres long ending into a huge hall and houses a 4 feet high Svayambhu lingam which bathes in a milky limestone liquid dripping from a tiny stalactite jutting down from the ceiling. The cave is in the shape of Shivji ka damroo. It is 78 kms from Katra.

We started trek at 1 pm, is 3 kms and took one hour. We were back post darshan by 5.15 pm. If the line for entering cave is long it could take longer. Finding our way in the cave, walking through little space and low height was an experience of a life time. If you do not want to stand in queue or are in a hurry you can enter from back entrance and have near instant darshan.

To see pictures of Shiv khori cave

7. Rajouri

From Shiv Khori it was too late to reach Rajouri the same evening so we spent the night at Nowshera. There is only one hotel, very good and some Rs 400/ for a double room. We had lovely rajma chawl here as we did all along the yatra.

Enroute to Rajouri visit Chengus Sarai to see tomb of Mughal King Jahangir.

Balidan Bhawan, Rajouri. 

In Rajouri we walked around the market and went to Balidan Bhawan. In 1947, local women and men got to know of the impending attack by Kabailis (Pakistani tribesmen) and local Muslims. When death stared at them, the women, with the consent of their husbands, consumed poison. As poison began showing its effects, they got the men to shoot them. When bullets were exhausted, the women requested the men to slit their necks. About 20,000 people from Rajouri and nearby villages were martyred. The Bhawan was made in their memory; some pictures depicting those dark days are on display here.

Also read Violence in Rajouri and Poonch starting 1947 

There is a garden at some distance from Rajouri, not as good as the ones in the Valley so did not visit. There is a scenic hill station some distance away whose name I forget. I liked Rajouri something nice about it.

To see picture of Rajouri including Balidan Bhawan

8. Poonch

Poonch was a Hindu kingdom in 1947. It is known for Shri Dashnami Akhada, the Nangalia Sahib Gurudwara and Budha Amarnath Temple that attracts thousands of devotees every year.

Poonch Fort.

There is something very likeable about Poonch. Fort is in the town itself. There is a Sheesh Mahal in ruins. Visit Chaken de Bagh or Trade Centre. If you are lucky you could see trucks which bring goods from POJK and Gilgit (now stopped). Also see Air Force and Army Memorial. Good hotels @ Rs 600/ per night.   

Air Force Memorial. 

Poonch has 7 lakes namely Sukhsar, Neelsar, Bhagsar, Katorasar, Kaldachnisar and Nandansar that are situated at about 12,000 feet. We were told that one has to trek to get there. Wish the State Govt promotes these scenic lakes.

We did not see Lohar Kote Fort which was once called the Gateway of Kashmir and Garden in Poonch because bridge was damaged due to heavy rains.

To see pics of Poonch  And People of Poonch , Nangali Sahib Gurudwara and Budha Amarnath Mandir

9. Mughal Road

From Poonch drove back to Surankote, drive some 10 kms ahead from where the Mughal Road starts. It is an 84 kms drive to Shopian which took around 2-3 hours.

To see pictures of Mughal Road

Anantnag, Verinag and Sinthan Pass are part of Kashmir Valley.

10. Anantnag

In Anantnag visited the Surya Mandir (Mattan).

Martand Surya Mandir. 

Entrance to the Martand Temple was blocked by apple boxes. The sign board with a brief history of the place was rusted; what was left of the writing was illegible. The ruins gave an idea of how magnificent the temple was. There were little or no signs of restoration work then.

To see pictures of Martand Surya Mandir

11 Verinag

Kund at Verinag from where starts river Jhelum. 

From Anantnag, we drove to Verinag. It was dark and almost lost our way. We spent night at Hotel Alpine of J&K Tourism, nice rooms.

Jhelum (Sanskrit name Vitasta) rises from a kund (pond) in Verinag. There is an ancient Shiv Temple there and a beautiful garden. I enjoyed early morning walk.

To see pictures of Verinag

12. Sinthan Top

Snowfall was unexpected, best part of trip. Drive to Kishtwar was great.  

We left Verinag at about 8.30 am for Kishtwar and drove through Sinthan Pass. It had just snowed so road was wet and had snow on it. Lovely deodhar trees all along. Around 2 ish we stopped enroute at Sinthan Maidan, a picnic spot and reached Kishtwar by 4 pm.

To see pictures of drive through Sinthan Pass

13. Kishtwar

Kishtwar has a 1,000-year recorded history. Its first ruler Kahan Pal was from Bengal who settled here in the period 900-1000 AD.

At a saffron farm. 

I was suprised to see saffron grown there because I thought saffron was grown only in the Valley. The town is on a plateau & scenic. A policeman who stopped us laughed when we told him we were tourists. Asked, “What is there to see?” 

Close to Sarthal Mandir. 

Kishtwar is base for many important pilgrimages ― Sarthal temple is the temple of Sharika Devi, the presiding deity of Kashmir and Machail Mata Mandir. Devotees will come, as in Vaishno Devi, when there is awareness and infrastructure. 

To see pictures

14. Bhadarwah

It is a very pretty and popular hill station. See the Vasuki Naagji Mandir. During August there is a Kailash Yatra.

On way to Patnitop stopped at  Ramgarh.  It has a very popular restaurant that serves only Rajma Chawal. 

To see pictures of Bhadarwah

15. Sudha Mahadev Mandir

It is a popular pilgrimage site to worship. The trishul and mace is believed to belong to Pandava Bheem. Close by is Mantalai i.e. associated with the marriage of Shivji and Parvati.

To see pictures of Sudha Mahadev Mandir

16. Udhampur

We missed seeing the KRIMCHI temple complex. These temples were made in the 11-12^th century. Missed seeing ancient temple of Jallandri Mata believed to be the abode of Pandavas for some time during their exile and ancient Raghunath Mandir.

17. Patnitop

We missed seeing Patnitop and Sanasar.

Patnitop consists of several meadows enveloped by thick forests of deodhar and kail trees. You get a super view of the Chenab basin and Pir Panjal range beyond that. There is a Nag Mandir close i.e. a must visit. It is wow when it snows.

18. Sanasar

It is app 19 kms from Patnitop, a sprawling meadow with a 9-hole golf course. It is ideal for para gliding while Natha Top on way to Sanasar affords scenic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. A 10 kms trek from Sanasar is Sankhpal i.e. at an altitude of 10,000 feet.

Taxi Services

We used Bishan Sharma. Very good driver, sensible and balanced at the same willing to take the road less travelled. Contacts: 91 9797350725 and 91 9419296745.

Another person I spoke to was Mahesh Sharma. Even though I did not take his taxi he was ever willing to give me travel tips. Really appreciate his positive and consumer centric approach. Contacts: 91 9419190597, 91 9797640597, 0191 2560685. He had bigger vehicles like Innova.

If you are doing a long journey pay a fixed per day rate for vehicle, driver and toll with diesel to your account depending on how much you drive.

We took 11 days. For a comfortable journey and to cover the missed places make it a 14 day trip.

Shiva Shakti ke aashirwad our yatra was safal (successful).

Also read

1. Jammu: A Road less travelled