• Introduction to growing of raw Pashmina in Changthangi district of Ladakh. For India to become a leading producer of Pashmina, it needs an integrated approach that involves neighbouring countries, other Hill States and think Big.

For over twenty-two years, my journey with Pashmina and Cashmere has been more than a business pursuit. It was a quiet mission to reclaim India’s textile heritage that belonged naturally to Her once.

India is among the oldest textile cultures in the world. Yet today, in one of the most prestigious luxury fibres known to humanity, our presence remains disproportionately small.

The story of Pashmina began in the high-altitude Himalayan ecosystems of our region centuries ago. 

The fibre travelled from Ladakh through Kashmir into the courts and trading systems of the world. Over time, however, the value chain moved elsewhere. European mills industrialised finishing and luxury positioning. China and Mongolia built scale, fibre ecosystems and processing infrastructure.

India, despite possessing extraordinary artisanal knowledge and while Ladakhi Changthangi Pashmina is among the most respected ultra-fine Himalayan cashmere fibres in the world, slowly India became a marginal player in a category deeply linked to its own heritage.

Today India contributes less than 1% of global cashmere fibre production. Yet the Ladakhi Pashmina fibre, obtained from the Changthangi goat, is widely regarded among the finest in the world in terms of fineness and hand feel.

This contradiction should make us pause. We possess:

1. High-altitude terrain suitable for these breeds,

2. Hand skills in spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery and finishing,

3. Centuries of textile memory,

4. And over 200 Geographical Indications across textile traditions.

Yet we have not built a fully integrated modern luxury fibre ecosystem.

The issue is not a lack of heritage or talent. It is the absence of long-term systems thinking. Luxury is built today through the integration of:

1. fibre science,

2. breed development,

3. processing consistency,

4. micron grading,

5. traceability,

6. authentication,

7. design innovation,

8. machinery calibration,

9. branding,

10. And global market positioning.

There must be a perfect amalgamation of knowledge and skill, man and machine, tradition and technology.

Over the last few years, encouraging steps have begun. Dehairing infrastructure was established in Leh. Standards such as IS 17269 have emerged. Discussions around a formal Pashmina Mark and stronger authentication systems are underway. The Ministry of Textiles, CWDB and local administrations have shown seriousness and intent.

These are important beginnings. But implementation is critical. The challenge before India is not merely to sell more shawls.

The challenge is to rebuild an entire mountain-to-market ecosystem:

1. protecting pastoral livelihoods,

2. supporting Changpa and other Himalayan communities,

3. strengthening fibre quality and traceability,

4. modernising processing,

5. enabling design-led innovation,

6. And positioning Indian Pashmina as a globally respected heritage luxury.

As India expands its fibre ecosystem to include regions such as Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand, it becomes important to create transparent grading systems based on measurable fibre characteristics such as micron count, staple length, yield and dehairing quality. This allows different Himalayan fibres to find their rightful place in the market without diluting premium Changthangi positioning.

This needs to be viewed strategically too.

The Himalayan pastoral communities are not merely producers of fibre. They are ecological custodians and frontier communities living in some of the harshest terrains in the world. Sustaining these livelihoods is linked to craft preservation, and also to ecology, migration, cultural continuity and border resilience.

India has all the ingredients necessary to become a serious global leader in specialty fibres and luxury textiles once again.

What is required now is continuity of vision, patient institution-building and the confidence to benchmark ourselves not against local limitations, but against the very best in the world.

Another critical area requiring urgent attention is traceability and authentication. The global market today is flooded with products falsely marketed as ‘Pashmina,’ diluting both consumer trust and the livelihoods of genuine Himalayan producers. India must therefore build a robust authentication ecosystem combining fibre testing, QR-based traceability, GI enforcement and anti-counterfeit systems. Every genuine product should ideally be traceable from raw fibre source to spinning, weaving and final finishing.

In the future, luxury value will not come only from the product itself, but from provable authenticity, transparent sourcing and trust.

The opportunity is economic and civilizational. Perhaps, after centuries, the time has finally come for Pashmina’s finest chapter to be written once again in Bharat.

Ladakh produces 40–50 metric tons of raw Pashmina annually from nearly two lakh goats. For production to increase manifold it must make economic sense for the people of Ladakh to rear more Changthangi goat. The government can motivate them through pride of local culture, financial incentives (a bit like PLI-production linked incentive scheme for industry) and setting up a transparent hassle free system to buy goat wool.

May be a cooperative framework on the lines of AMUL, where producers of raw cashmere fibre sell it to the co-operative who consolidates the buying and sells larger quantities to buyers, may help the goat growing communities to get a better price for their fibre. Payment done immediately to their bank accounts. The All Changthang Pashmina Growers Cooperative Marketing Society exist. May be it needs to be scaled up with increased support.

The Union Territory of Ladakh recently created new districts, one of which was Changthang. With a smaller district, hope the growth of cashmere wool gets more attention.

To achieve scale the government must explore the hills of Himachal Pradesh (esp. Spiti Valley) and Uttarakhand to check if weather conditions similar to Changthang in Ladakh exist so that either the Changthang goat or similar goat varieties can be reared there.

Size of pasture lands in Ladakh might be a constraint to increase number of Changthangi goat so a presence in other hill states would help.

During a 2012 visit to village Darkot near Munsiyari, Kumaon, Uttarakhand a local weaver said that getting genuine cashmere fibre was a problem. There were numerous fake or blended products sold. The government needs to address this. She also said, earlier the fibre came from Tibet, that had stopped.

Ladakh can be known worldwide for Pashmina Wool and be its Identity. The geopolitical implications of this are significant too.

The future of Indian luxury textiles cannot lie only in nostalgia for handcraft or in purely industrial production. It must emerge through a careful blend of artisan knowledge, fibre science, modern machinery, design innovation and long-term brand building.

Now some general information culled out by Editor. 

Tso Morirri Lake. Pic by Umesh.

Q1. Where is Changthang in Ladakh?

It is in eastern Ladakh, close to Tibet. Pangong Lake and Tso Moriri Lake form part of the Changthang plateau.

According to an article in Downtoearth.org, “Spanning approximately 35,000 square kilometers, the Changthang Plateau is a prominent geographical feature in both Ladakh and Tibet. This elevated plateau stretches from the Indus River in the west to the Tso Moriri Lake in the east. The flora of the Changthang Plateau includes hardy grasses and shrubs that have adapted to the extreme climate. These plants play a crucial role in supporting local wildlife and the nomadic pastoralists who inhabit the region. Yak wool, highly prized for its warmth and durability, is a significant economic resource for the local communities.”

Q2.  Who is the biggest producer of Pashmina wool in the world?

China. They produce app 9,000 tons per annum.

A search states that, “China is the largest producer of raw pashmina/cashmere wool in the world, accounting for roughly 70% of global production. While Ladakh (India) produces the finest quality raw, hand-combed pashmina from the Changthangi goat, China dominates the overall volume, followed by Mongolia, Afghanistan and Nepal. Maximum production in China are in the Inner Mongolia and Tibetan regions.”

Q3. Can processing of raw wool in say Delhi or Chandigarh?

Yes. This will make the processor closer to key consumer markets.

What is required is a processing unit that brings economies of scale. It should ideally be in the private sector though close association with and support of the government is a pre-requisite. This unit can receive raw pashmina from all the hill states. So, location in NCR or Chandigarh would be preferred.

Q4. Are processing machines available in China only or does the West produce?

Chinese machines are cheaper as compared to those from Europe. One needs to check which machines would work better in a NCR type of climate.

Stargazing in Ladakh. Pic by Rishi Agrawal.  

Q5. How can a consumer identify a genuine Pashmina product?

It is difficult for a consumer to ascertain genuineness. They have to rely on declaration by the manufacturer or brand.

Q6. Can India collaborate with Nepal and Afghanistan to increase raw pashmina/cashmere wool?

This needs to be explored by the External Affairs and Commerce ministries.

Q7. Which goat is used to produce pashmina?

Only CAPRA HIRCUS LANIGER Goat. It is called Changthangi goat. Media reports that use of Chegu goat is being explored.

For India to become a leading producer of Pashmina Wool, one needs an integrated approach that goes beyond Ladakh. It should involve neighbouring countries and other hill states.

Government of India needs to think big with an integrated approach.

Also read

1. Some facts about Pashmina

2. Ladakh’s Looms of Life

3. To visit Changthang and Here

4. Story of Weaving near Leh 

5. Tribune Chandigarh article on Pashmina Wool

6. The AMUL Cooperative Way

7. To see 43 ALBUMS on Ladakh

Author Sameer Mehra is founder of Ezma Fine Cashmere

Sunny Narang contributed to this article.