• The one-day visit to Murud Janjira Fort is full of adventure and a good visit for nature/history buffs. This photo feature tells you all about it including feedback on the chaotic ferry ride.

An Island fort built over 500 year ago on the Arabian Sea, controlled by the Siddis (People of African / Ethiopian descent) and which withstood assaults by the Portuguese, Marathas, and British is a historian’s delight and a “Must See.” This is the Island Fort of Janjira off the coastal town of Murud in Konkan, Maharashtra.

With a desire to experience this fascinating chapter of Indian History, I visited the Janjira Fort in the week ending December 28, 25. We experienced a lot of year-end holiday rush.

The fort is close to Murud Beach. However, the resort we stayed at a resort on Kashid Beach which is app a 120 km drive from Mumbai. The drive from Kashid beach to Rajapuri Jetty (boarding point for Janjira Fort) takes approx. 45 Minutes and is 20 kms away. Drive is smooth. More on how to reach later.

About Fort in brief

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Extract from board, “The fort was constructed rudimentarily by a Koli (chieftain) and later taken over by Perin Khan. Construction of the fort as it stands was built from 1576 to 1728, under different rulers. The fort has 19 three tiered rounded bastians mounted with number of canons. One of the canons is the third largest in India. This fort withstood attacks from the Portuguese, Marathas and British.”

4 One of the 3 canons. Kalal Bangdi, Chavri, and Landa Kasam are still intact.”

Jetty Experience – from Land to Fort in small boats 

We reached the Rajapuri Jetty at 930 AM by which time the parking was already over full. Amidst the honks and the chaos, we somehow managed to reach the line for the Boat Tickets. Without any kind of shade and at the mercy of the blazing sun, we reached the Ticket counter after an hour.

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In true Indian spirit, a few people would try to sneak into the queue, resulting in a fracas. Tickets are sold only in physical mode strictly in Cash (No UPI/Debit Card Payment). I had thought India had moved on! It seems tickets are sold by a private party. By receiving only cash there is no audit trail.

We rushed towards the boarding point, only to realize that more excitement lay in store. There were two lines and one is not sure which one you are supposed to join.  No one to guide or advise what is the purpose behind having two lines.

Wait time for the Boat: 1 hour. We managed to board a boat, reminiscent of the ancient boats that used to ply at the Gateway of India, Mumbai over 50 years ago. After a slow gentle sail, when we reached closer to the island after which we were shifted on to another smaller sail boat.

6 Inside a cramped boat.

The small sail boat, with a capacity 10-15 pax was filled with at least 50 people. Bodies were contorted out of shape since everyone was crammed and squeezed, into every square inch. I am sure even Sardines in a can have more luxury of space.

We stood in the open sea for approximately for half an hour before we disembarked at the fort. This was another adventure as we stepped on wet rickety, steps to enter the fort. Hordes of people were already on their way out.

10 Entry into fort.

The fort is a joy to behold.

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Surrounded by the seas on all sides, the bastions offered breath-taking views. The mainland of India on the East and the open Arabian Seas on the west. Thus, it came as no surprise when we got to know that powerful powers like the Marathas and British were unable to capture it. Eventually, it merged with the Indian Union in 1948 as a Princely state.

The Fort itself is self-contained, with fresh water tanks, a palace, mosque and large cannons for protection.

5 Water tank.

2 View from fort.

3 View from fort.

The Return Trip back to the mainland was not any better. A mini stampede occurred every time a boat was announced for the return to either Rajapuri, Dighi and Agardanda. Some of the passengers were asked to sit on the boat edge to balance the boat. The boatmen assured passengers that even if they somehow fell into the sea, there was no reason to worry. That assurance added to anxiety levels.

An unexpected interlude, was that the winds died down and our sail boat was suddenly adrift in the sea. That delayed our return but we reached safely. Thank Sri Krishna.

If you have the appetite for adventure and love of history, the Janjira Fort is a must to add to your bucket list. 

7 Fort view with boat on left.

Tips

1. Reach early in the morning, to beat the crowds. Weather will also be better.

2. Try to avoid weekends and peak holiday season like New Year week.

3. A guide will be helpful. This is probably village Rajapuri.

4. Carry your own water.

5. Caps and Sunglasses are helpful.

6. Budget atleast 4-5 hours for the Trip.

7. Better wear trekking shoes or strong sneakers.

Close to Janjira Fort

Close by see Padmadurg Fort (10 kms built by Shivaji), Nawab’s Palace (Ahmedganj Palace) 3 kms and Goa Beach 2 kms. 

Keep about two hours for fort. Boat ride both ways is time consuming.

How to reach Janjira Fort  

Janjira Fort is located off Murud beach. We decided to halt at a Resort at Kashid Beach, which is approximately 120 kms from South Mumbai. The total drive time is approx. 5 Hours taking the Road via Atal Setu – Alibaug and thereafter to Kashid beach. The stretch from Nagaon and further on the Murud-Revdanda Road had several blockages since the narrow 2-lane Road was undergoing construction work in several stretches. 

The drive from Kashid beach to Rajapuri Jetty (boarding point for Janjira Fort) takes approx. 45 Minutes and is 20 kms away. Drive is smooth.

Visitors have the option of taking the Ro-Ro ferry from Mandwa jetty. This is a less exhausting option, and will cut travel time by approximately an hour.

The state government needs to improve the ferry experience if it wants more tourists to enjoy the wonderful Janjira Fort.  

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Also read

1. KANHOJI ANGRE was India's first naval commander

2. To read all articles on Maratha History

3. SHIVAJI Maharaj - A NAVAL Visionary by Dr Uday Kulkarni who wrote, “In 1670, after four years of peace with the Mughals, Raja Shivaji launched his campaign against Janjira and enforced a strict blockade. At one point, Fath Khan, who commanded the fort, was distressed enough to accept a sum of money to hand over the fort. However, his three Abyssinian slaves arrested and imprisoned him and continued to hold out. At this stage, the Siddi sought to change his allegiance from Bijapur to the Mughals and the fleet joined the Mughal power. During Maratha preoccupation in Khandesh, the Siddi came ashore and took the fort of Danda on the coast from the Maratha commander, and from then on a bitter struggle between the Siddis and the Marathas continued until well into the eighteenth century.”

4. A History of Maratha Navy and Merchantships

5. Useful travelogue

6. Another good travelogue – also covers Murud Beach 

7. Beaches of Maharashtra

8. To see video on Murud Beach 3.44 minutes