• This covers a day wise program that started with a drive from Srinagar to Leh through Drass-Mushkoh Valley-Phuktal Monastery-Spituk Gompa/River Indus.   

We flew into Srinagar (5,200 ft) from Mumbai in early August 2024.  

If I told you that we saw brown bears in the wild, woke up to Tiger Hill towering upon us, met and shared stories from soldiers of the celebrated 13 JAK Rifle, drove through the incredible Zanskar region/valley with not a human in sight for miles, made picnics on lakes which don’t exist on the map, drank Prosecco cooled by the mighty Indus, sipped on coffee whilst staring at the majestic Drang Drung glaciers (near Pensi La pass), trekked to a monastery across two mountains at the break of dawn, drank Yak butter tea with the lamas, repaired a flat tyre in the middle of nowhere, bonded over local Chhang, were blessed by the Rinpoche Lama at the Spituk Monastery and drove over 1000 kilometres, under ten days, across Kashmir and Ladakh, would you believe me?

Wondering if any of this would have happened if it not for the goodness of ordinary people, of their embracing hearts and their spirit of sharing! 

Here is a day-wise program of ten incredible days that only father-son spent in Ladakh. It made the bonding stronger just like Fevicol does. LoL….

Tourist Information Board near Leh.

Day 1 

After relaxing during the day, in the evening Nakuul presented Corp Cdr Lt Gen Ghai my book Rajputana Chronicles: Guns and Glories. Exchanged notes with locals on tips for trip.

Day 2   Drove to Dras 5-6 hrs via Sonamarg (80 km)/Zoji La pass and crossed Matiyan the entry point to Ladakh. 

Enroute had picnic at Pan Dras on river Dras island. Leaving Tiger hill on the left we entered Dras township. Later took a walk on the main street meeting and greeting, people understanding their lifestyle, why and what they are doing. We were happy to learn that their conviction of being an Indian is very strong.

At Pan Dras island, Nakuul and Harmit

Day 3   Mushkoh valley (11,000 ft)

Post breakfast we left for Mushkoh Valley for a meeting with Sheena and Balti tribal chiefs and a Polo team Captain. We also met Dras cultural society Chief Amin and had a cordial interaction on self-improvement through mindfulness.

All hosts enjoyed taking selfie and group pictures with Nakuul, the celebrity actor. They gifted us a Balti costume.

Father Son in Balti costume.

The Mushkoh valley is in Dras. It is also known as the Valley of wild red Tulips. Widely considered to be glaciated and unsuitable for human habitation, it came into prominence during the Kargil War of 1999, when Pakistani forces crossed the Line of Control (LoC). I wish to let you know that it was the locals who first informed the Army camp about Pakistani intrusion. It was once again the locals, both Muslims and Buddhists who worked tirelessly to transport logistics for the Army on their mules and own back to the treacherous heights in and around Tiger Hill. However, their contribution was not acknowledged by any media/film. Our sincere gratitude, today and always.  

Wild red Tulips in Mushkoh Valley.  

Visit to Kargil War Memorial  

This is a war memorial built by the Indian Army in the town of Dras, near Kargil. It commemorates the 1999 Kargil War between India and Pakistan. There were 527 casualties and 1,363 injured soldiers from our military. Capt Vikram Batra, Granedier Yogendra Singh Yadav, Capt Manoj Kumar Pandey and Maj Rajesh Adhikari were the Kargil War heroes from this area.

Father and Son salute the martyrs at Kargil War Memorial. 

 Visit to Dras Army Museum. Second on Left is Sub Sanjay Kumar who took part in the 1999 war as a young jawan. 

Later in the day we met the Army Commanders at Dras and presented them with my coffee table book – Guns and Glories for their Officer’s mess.

Day 4   Brown Bear sighting at Mushkoh valley – Drove to Kargil 

At 5 am we left for Brown Bear sighting at Mushkoh valley. We were lucky to see two with one baby bear. Later did a 10 km drive to Hunderman (8,790ft), an abandoned village on the LoC.

Brown bear sighting at Mushkoh Valley. 

From 1949 to 1965, Hunderman village belonged to Pakistan. During the 1965 war, it fell into no-man’s land for several years. Partly abandoned! Finally in 1971, India captured it. Overnight the people in the village became Indians just like in Turtuk, Ladakh.

The abandoned village at Hunderman village. 

Saru River flows between the Indian post at LoC at Hunderman. There is a small viewpoint with binoculars on the hillock. In 1974, the villagers moved to new settlement on the upper parts of the valley. Today it is a ghost village. Nakuul and Harmit trekked across the valley to the village and saw the deserted hutments. A local NGO has made a small museum in one of the homes, with left over articles, like utensils, pots, currency notes, original doors etc.  

Saru rivers divides India and Pakistan, the green patch being Pak.

The drive to Kargil town took five to six hours.

Day 5   Drove to Padum (11,700ft)

It took four to five hours to reach Padum via village Rungdum. For lunch we had Maggie Noodles enroute. With this had entered Zanskar region.

While driving on National Highway 1 we stopped by at Padum for tea-snacks. A left turn from NH-1 took us to Village Purne. We stayed at tent resort Tara Sarai in their luxury camps. It is a beautifully landscaped property with extremely courteous and helpful staff.

With 94 year old Ladakhi lady at Dolma Cafe, Purne.

At Tara Serai we were happy to enjoy a crisp Dosa.

Day 6  Relax, Food and Star Gazing

We drove down to Dolma Cafe for snacks, coffee, and returned to Tara Sarai followed by a relaxed afternoon. Evening and night spent with good food, mountain view, and star gazing, while singing our childhood poem – Twinkle, twinkle little star. How I wonder what you are. Up above the world so high. Like a diamond in the sky...! (Songwriters: Trad / Martha Rosalind)

Looking at the sky.  

Fans of son Nakuul at Dolma Cafe. 

Day 7   Trek to Phuktal Monastery/Drive to Kargil 

Early morning Trek to Phuktal Monastery/Gompa, 2 hrs. Nakuul, Harmit and other team members went for the trek. However, I stayed back, since climbing uphill is outside my physical reach.

Morning trek to Phuktal Monastery. 

We had planned to drive through Shinge La pass (16,500ft) / Sirsir La pass (15,761ft) but changed plans because of landslides. We left for Kargil as the route via Chilling Road (strategic road along Zanskar river) to Leh was also closed. During our six to seven hour drive enjoyed beautiful mountains, rivers and glaciers. The day reminded me of a quote: Man proposes, God disposes.

Day 8  Drive to Leh (11,480 ft)

The drive from Kargil to Leh took five to six hours. Enroute we visited Mulbekh Chamba Monastery to see Maitreya Buddha, the rock-cut cliff-face statue of Buddha. It is 9 meters (39 ft) tall Maitreya Buddha (who will be reborn, also called the Chamba by the locals).

Maitreya Buddha. Pranams.  

On the way to Leh we passed Fatu La Pass (13,478 ft) in the Zanskar Range of Himalayas. It is the highest point on the highway to Leh, surpassing the famed Zoji La. Moving eastwards, the highway begins to descend towards the Lamayuru Monastery. We saw the monastery from below as it was not possible for me to climb that elevation.

At Magnetic Hill. 

Magnetic Hill lies at a distance of around 40 km from Leh. It is a ‘phenomenon that defies gravity’. When you park your car marked at the indicated spot on the road, the parked car (without brakes and gear in neutral) begins to move forward at a speed of almost 15 to 20 kmph. To the east of magnetic hill flows the Indus (Sindhu) river, making a Sangam with Zanskar river. These fascinating sights aroused my curiosity to no end. At Sangam, we were fortunate to meet an Army unit, which had come for team building exercise.

Lower pic, enjoying river Indus. Top pic is Sangam of rivers Indus and Zanskar.

I am grateful to Lt Col Panigrahi, for welcoming a 20-minute mindful interaction between jawans, self and son Nakuul. Thereafter the unit wanted selfies with Nakuul who was willing to make them happy.

As we approached Leh, we passed by Gurudwara Pather Sahib. It is a beautiful Gurudwara constructed in memory of Guru Nanak Sahib, about 25 km before Leh, on the Kargil-Leh Road (12000 ft). We finally reached Leh by 4 pm. Checked in at Ladakh Sarai, a luxury resort in Leh.

Day 9 

Visit to Spituk Monastery (12,070ft), also known as Spituk Gompa, is a Buddhist Monastery in Leh district, 8 km away from Leh. Rinpoche Lama, a 13-year-old head of the monastery is the incarnation of Kunshuk Bakula.

Wall mural at the lesser known Spituk Monastery.

We also visited Thiksey Monastery i.e. a must visit. 

Thereafter we were taken for a picnic lunch by the Indus River. It was hosted by Rigzin of Ladakh Sarai.

Picnic by river Indus with host Rigzin and his son.

Day 10   Return to Mumbai 

All good things come to an end so did this trip. Rigzin personally drove us to Leh airport in his Toyota Hilux. Indeed, very kind of him.

Part 2 covers Driving and Health Tips. 

Father and son, emotional yet composed on this exciting road trip. 

My heart continues to be filled with gratitude that my son Nakuul gifted me this road trip and experience of Nichiren Buddhism, which he practices in his daily life. Also sharing my experiences, as a mindful coach and navy veteran, with son Nakuul and the one to one time spent is a memory that both of us will cherish forever.

Eleven days later I hear in his voice more inspiration, determination, and dedication to his dreams and purpose in life. We were just one of the many father-son teams as mentors on the road trip to Ladakh. Hopefully, this will be a growing trend.

More on this powerful - Mentors on the Road, invite us to talk to you and inspire you and your organisation.

Commander Pratap Mehta is a mind transformation Coach, motivational speaker and Indian Navy Veteran who took part in India Pakistan War of 1971. Nakuul Mehta is a multiple award-winning Indian actor, producer and the star of some of the biggest television shows over the last decade.

Also see albums/read

1. Palaces of Leh

2. Drive Leh to Kargil

3. Thiksey Monastery

4. Army Goodwill School, Kargil

5. Suru Valley Drive

6. Kargil War Memorial

7. Hall of Fame Leh

8. Star Gazing Ladakh

9. Photography Tour to Zanskar, Ladakh

10. Drive Leh to Zanskar

11. Journey to Phuktal Monastery

12. Tso Morriri Lake

13. Pangong Lake

14. Drive Leh to Manali

15. Siachen Base Camp