• Our trip to Tawang was truly memorable. The drive from Bhalukpong to Tawang was scenic, the break at Dirang and Sangti Valley had unexpected goodies, Tawang and around was a welcome surprise.

The saying that journey is the destination truly applies for travelling to Tawang! A 2-3 day travel from Guwahati to Tawang takes you through one of the most beautiful terrains in the country – mountains, waterfalls, valleys, little hamlets along the way, birding opportunities, lakes and mountain passes, defence zones, monasteries and most importantly the greenery of Kashmir at the height of Spiti or Ladakh! 

Tour Plan 9 Days

It was a nine days trip Guwahati to Guwahati. We hired an Innova. Total of 8 days in Arunachal with seven nights broken into one night at Bhalukpong, two nights at Dirang, three nights at Tawang, one night at Bomdilla. Day 9 was in Guwahati-Kamakya Mandir and Brahmaputra boat ride. One needs a Special Permit to visit Bumla Border. This piece covers the Arunachal part. 

Day 1 Nagaon and Bhalukpong

We started from Guwahati by road and at 120 kms, we had our first pit-stop to see the Maha Mrityunjay temple in Puranigudam, Nagaon. The temple structure is in the form of a Shivling and at 126 feet, it is the largest Shivling shaped temple in the world. Completed in 2021, it is attracting devotees from Assam and beyond.  

1 Maha Mrityunjay Temple, Nagaon, Assam

Continuing our journey towards Tawang, our first night halt was at Bhalukpong that offered us an easy rafting option on the Kameng river. While the rapids were gentle, it offered us splendid sunset views and a look at some wild elephants across the river.  

We missed visiting the Botanical Gardens at Tipi i.e. close to Bhalukpong, Serpen Waterfalls and the Nag Mandir enroute.    

Day 2 and 3 Drive to Dirang, Monastery and Sangti Valley

After a five hours drive, we reached Dirang and decided to stay there for two nights. Dirang is at a height of app 5,000 feet.

Dirang is a scenic valley that runs along the Dirang river and is surrounded by mountains on all sides. With decent hotels, resorts and a small market, Dirang offers several unique experiences that one should not miss:

Dirang Monastery: One of the most beautiful and newly constructed monasteries perched on top of a mountain with gorgeous views all across, Dirang monastery is a temple of learning for study of Tibetan Buddhism. With the blessings of Dalai Lama, the monastery was founded in 2017.

2 Dirang monastery.

Sangti Valley: About an hour’s drive from Dirang is a scenic valley called Sangti with its own eco-system of resorts, a flowing river and a little town. Also known as Mini Kashmir of Arunanchal Pradesh, it is known for its stunning landscapes, forests, pine trees and crystal-clear Sangti river. While many prefer to stay here, we decided to absorb the beauty of this valley on a day visit.

3 Sangti river in Sangti Valley

A fine dining eight-course meal at Damu’s Heritage in Chugh Valley: Just half an hour away from Dirang is this unique experience waiting for you. Managed by eight women of the Monpa tribe this is a feast to enjoy and relish. Food is cooked using local ingredients. It was covered by Conde’ Nast Traveler and one of the top highlights of our entire trip.

4 Entry to Damu’s Heritage

Mandala Top and Birding: At a height of 11,000 feet Mandala Top has 108 stupas atop a mountain surrounded by colors that had turned orange and yellow due to the fall season. In this area and around, on a good day, one can experience many unique birds local to this region. Surely, worth a try as it gives you a chance of walking early morning in the middle of the nature!

Day 4 Drive to Tawang

Continuing our journey to Tawang, our next stop was at Jaswantgarh War Memorial. It is dedicated to Rifleman Jaswant Singh who, in 1962, fought the Chinese single-handedly for over 72 hours. Seeing him fight alone, local folklore has stories of how two Monpa girls joined him and sacrificed themselves!

Here you will find army officers here eager to tell you the story, help you shop at the Army Canteen (most places in this area, you can shop in army canteens at discounted prices) and guide you for a meal at their canteen.

To see album of Jaswantgarh War Memorial

Before reaching Tawang, there is a mandatory stop at Sela Pass (13700 feet) where one should walk down to Sela Lake, absorb the beauty of the region and have Maggi before moving ahead. We went via Sela Pass but returned via shorter Sela Tunnel. To see album of Sela Pass

5 Sela Pass - a formal entry into Tawang.

14. Sela Lake – pic by H V Kumar. 

Tawang (height app 11,100 feet) is a typical hill town but with a difference! Army presence is significant with probably every second person having an armed force connection. We felt humbled when we heard the stories of the army fighting wars in this region and sacrificing themselves, even when outnumbered against a superior enemy. One of the highlights of being here is the closeness you feel to the Indian Army, their daily life and challenges.  

We chose to stay at a luxury boutique hotel called Timilo and it was one of our best decisions (we chose it over Taj)! Everything about this 16-room hotel was fantastic – the rooms, food, personalized service and the views from the rooms. Not too far from Tawang Monastery. Timilo is highly recommended!

6 Halloween at Timilo – a surprise celebration for us.

We experienced local culture, cuisines in Tawang and its unpredictable weather. I would bucket our Tawang experiences in the following -

Tawang Monastery and Big Buddha: The largest monastery in India and second only to the one in Lhasa. Founded in 1680-81 as per the wishes of fifth Dalai Lama, it is also known as Gaden Namgyal Lhatse (meaning divine paradise of complete victory).  It was founded by Mera Lama Lodre Gyaltso, a contemporary of the fifth Dalai Lama. Tawang monastery belongs to the Gelug sect of Mahayana Buddhism. Dalai Lama is the spiritual leader of this sect.

A major seat of Buddhist studies, it houses hundreds of monks. Situated at 10,000 feet, it overlooks the beautiful Tawang Valley.

7 Inside Tawang monastery. 28 feet high image of Buddha.

A little distance away is the big Buddha statue on top of a mountain. Overlooking the city, it is worth a quick stop while going to the market.

8 Big Buddha statue

Light and Sound Show at Tawang War Memorial: A visit reminds you of the sacrifices by our forces and their bravery. Do combine with a visit to the Tawang market.

9 Light and Sound show celebrating the armed forces

Sangestar So Lake and Bumla Border: Also known as Madhuri Lake Sangestar is at altitude of 13,000 feet and close to the border with Tibet.

It is very scenic, partially submerged with dead trees and famous because the movie Koyla was shot here. Not too far is Bum La pass (15000 feet) where you can literally shake hands with the Chinese troops. The weather is unpredictable. We experienced unseasonal heavy snowfall. Within minutes, the Army suspended travel. The drive is pretty with many small lakes around.

From Bum La, you can go further to Chumi Gyatse that has 108 cascading waterfalls and return to Tawang by early evening. Enroute, one crosses Teesri Udasi gurudwara, a sacred place, where Guru Nanak Dev visited around 1514 A.D. On the way back we missed visiting the Sub Joginder Singh PVC Memorial.

10 Sangetsar Lake.

11 En route to Bumla

To see album of Bumla Border and Lake

Jung Waterfall (also called Nuranang): Probably the best kept secret around Tawang, this is one of the most scenic waterfalls in the region, if not across the country. It is famous for the sacrifice of one of the two Monpa girls who fought the Chinese and for the movie Koyla. The waterfall is mesmerizing. To see it in its full glory visit just after the monsoons. One can do Jung waterfall on the way up or down to Bumla instead of making a special trip from Tawang.

12 Jung Waterfalls

There is only one market in Tawang which has shopping, the army canteen outlet, cafes and some restaurants serving multi-cuisine including vegetarian options. The place buzzes with the stories from Indo-China conflict and army presence everywhere makes you feel part of their journey. The terrain is tough but very beautiful.

Overall, to enjoy Tawang, Dirang, Sangti and a halt each way at Bhalukpong/Bomdilla (we stopped here on our way back), one needs around 7-8 days to explore this area.

13 A vegetarian feast for us in a roadside Nepali cuisine restaurant.

Arunanchal Pradesh seems far to most Indians but for nature lovers, this is truly rewarding. Moreover, it can easily be combined with Meghalaya and parts of Assam, i.e. Kaziranga and Majuli. Arunanchal Pradesh is a big state and Tawang on its western side, not too far from Tibet border on north or Bhutan on the west can be a good start to explore this region!

Later we were told that locally made carpets and cane products are available at Tawang.

15 Local from Nishi tribe at Sela Pass Lake. U see him in traditional headgear.

16 At Ziro. Today mainly older ladies wear nose plugs and facial tattoos. Apatani tribe. 2013.

17 Carpets at Tawang Crafts Centre, run by the state government.

18. At Bomdilla Crafts Centre.

19 Tourist wearing a cap made out of Yak wool, very warm.

YEAH DIL MANGE MORE of Tawang. 

Our trip was planned by Surabhi Subramonian. (Routed Travels) She can be reached at routedindia@gmail.com

To read all travelogues by author

Also see albums from a 2013 trip

1. Drive to Tawang

2. Tawang Monastery

3. Sela Pass

4. Bumla Border

5. Jaswantgarh War Memorial

6. Tawang War Memorial – dedicated to the nation in 1999, renovated in 2012. 

7. How the Sela Tunnel will benefit Tawang  

8. Best Places to see in Arunachal Pradesh

9. Craft Centres Arunachal Pradesh