• Why Kashi is important to the Indian Civilization includes what learned say about the town, why Kashi was a Centre of Learning, famous saints and authors and what is Pañcakrośī Yatra. Which are the other Kashi’s in India. Plus Kashi photos.

I visited Kashi around 1992 for work, in 2008 with my wife, in 2013 for Dev Deepavali and in 2020 when I was reborn. I would return recharged from within. The lack of Singapore type cleanliness did not matter. Just walking through its lanes and ghats, visiting the various temples and ashrams not to forget Kashi Chaat made me happy from within.

During the 2013 visit getting from the airport to Assi Ghat was a nightmare as compared to 2020 when it was a breeze. eSamskriti has published many articles/albums on Kashi for e.g. Why is Varanasi a pilgrimage destination , albums Dev Deepavali Kashi and Ghats of Kashi

With improvement in road, rail and air connectivity many people do what I call ‘Darshan Pilgrimage’ meaning they reach a town, have darshan of Kashi Vishwanath Temple-eat, take Prasad and leave. It becomes a short break without absorbing the energy and experience of the town. 

Traditionally, a pilgrimage involved physical hardship but today the 'pilgrim' wants all the luxury of their daily lives in the pursuit of moksha, Star hotels, hot water, multi-cuisine, spewing garbage everywhere they go, making this journey not a pilgrimage but a tourist destination. Their entitlement is taking away the sanctity and sacredness of what should be a pious and pure journey of a devotee.

While improvement in infrastructure and cleanliness is welcome, hope Varanasi does not become only a tourist destination. Know why Kashi is important-

23 Welcome to Shiv Nagari, Kashi says a painting. Pic by Arun Saha.

24 Sunrise at Assi Ghat. Around sunrise take a boat ride from Assi Ghat to Rajghat, wow experience. Pic by Arun Saha.

What is written about Kashi?

C P Singh wrote, “In Rigveda the city is referred to as Kasi or Kashi, the luminous city as an eminent seat of learning. The name kashi is also mentioned in the Skanda Purana. 5

Just as certain limbs of the body are purer than others, so are certain places on earth more sacred-some on account of their situation, others because of their sparkling waters and others because of the association and habitation of saintly people.” Bhishma (Immortal India-1 KASHI, 12/9/1954 by J. H. Dave)

Dr Uday Dokras wrote in Kashi the city of Lights, “It is city of light; the City of delight ; the abode of Visveswara; the city of the well of knowledge Jnanavapi ; the City of purity, where the Mother Ganga purifies all who surrender to her in love and reverence; the City of Maha-smashana the ultimate end of all; and, above all, it is home of the graceful and loving Mother Annapurna.” When we say Light it is in comparison to darkness which is caused by ignorance. By visiting the various centres of learning in Kashi and spending time with Sages ignorance gets removed. Hence, light returns. 

Swami Varishthananda wrote in the Prabuddha Bharata, “Swami Vivekananda once said, ‘Art, science, and religion are but three different ways of expressing a single truth.’ The saints, sages, and savants of Varanasi verily express that single truth in their own inimitable style. The resultant melody is vibrant Varanasi, the city of Shiva.” 1

Swamiji added, “Varanasi is famous for three things - learning, burning, and turning. This is the story of Kashi, the city of light and liberation, which name is derived from the same Sanskrit root as prakasa, which means-kasayati prakasayati iti kasi. The atmosphere of holy spirituality is undoubtedly densest within the precincts of the shrine of Vishwanatha especially in the sanctum sanctorum, yet the whole atmosphere of Varanasi is spiritually surcharged and is especially conductive to religious and scholastic pursuits and spiritual growth.”

In Jaina tradition, four of the twenty four Tirthankaras - Suparshvanatha (seventh Tirthankara), Chandraprabhu (eighth), Shreyansanatha (eleventh) and Parshvanatha (twenty third Tirthankara) were born in Kashi

For the Buddhists it has a high significance - it was near Saranganatha (saranga refers to deer) or Sarnath is where Buddha gave his first sermon. Kashi is on

the banks of the Ganga, one of India’s holiest rivers. Can you imagine Kashi without the Ganga? Read   India’s Sacred Rivers

Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple.

Kashi as Kṣetra, Tīrtha, and Mūrti

Dr P Mukherjee and Jay Kumar wrote in Kashi as Kṣetra, Tīrtha, and Mūrti: A Living Indian Knowledge System, “The three Sanskrit terms around which this article is organised kṣetra, tīrtha, and mūrti are not simply religious categories. Kṣetra denotes territory that has been charged, bounded, and made productive by sacred intention; it is the field in which action and knowledge bear fruit. Tīrtha designates a crossing-place, a site where the boundaries between the human and the divine, the living and the dead, the temporal and the eternal become permeable and traversable. Mūrti most often translated as ‘image or form’ refers not to representation in any mimetic sense but to the embodied presence of the divine in material form. Together, these three categories constitute a rich and coherent conceptual vocabulary through which Kashi has understood.”

Ksetra is where an accumulated presence of divine action and tapas has energised the place.

Varanasi-A passage to Immortality by Rishi & Arun. Left of pic is lane. 

In Kashi ksetra, tirtha and murti integrate to form a sacred complex. 6 Murti is the Vishwanath Temple and the Ganga, Tirtha is as I see it positive karmas of lakhs of devotees who visited Kashi over the centuries. Ksetra is the presence, felt by many, of the many evolved souls that lived in Kashi. Telanga Swami is one such soul whose presence I felt when visited his temple.

Which are Kashi’s across India 

People who could not visit Kashi in U.P. could go to a Kashi closer home. 

Chhoti Kashi’s are found across India for e.g. Mandi in Himachal Pradesh, Purmandal (near Jammu), Jaunpur (U.P.), Hoshiarpur (Punjab), Nanjanagadu in Karnataka  and Tenkasi (Tamil Nadu). Read  The Many Kashis of India 

Wai in Maharashtra is also called Dakshin Kashi wrote S Godbole. Like others Wai was a on the banks of a river, had numerous temples and was a centre of learning. There is also Uttarkashi in Garwhal.

Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, Tenkasi, Tamil Nadu. 

Kashgar in Xinjiang, which was a major Buddhist centre, was also called Kashi-giri. Source

How was Kashi was a Centre of Learning?

Shashi Shekhar Editor in Chief, Hindustan wrote in Hindustan Times, “The grandeur of Kashi was absolutely unique. Kashi Khand (chapter) of Skanda Purana declares it as India’s highest intellectual seat. The reason was that no new idea or principle would be universally accepted till it was debated and proved by the Kashi Vishwanath temple’s “intellectual committee”. Whether it was Shankaracharya or Ramanujacharya, every philosopher had to present, debate, and prove their hypothesis in this intellectual arena.

The city of Vishwanath was also a great centre for astronomy, astrology, logic, and medicine. The Vishwanath Temple Council was also called Moksh Lakshmi Vilas. The granary of the Ma Annapoorna Temple situated close by ensured no one in Kashi would sleep hungry.”  Why Hindus give importance to education

Excerpts from a 2020 paper authored by Shreya Tiwari titled, “Educational Institutions of Kashi: Ancient to Modern Period”, “For centuries, Kashi, also known as “Sarva Vidya Ki Rajdhani” (Capital of knowledge) 5, a phrase used in the BHU Kulgeet by Shanti Swarup Bhatnagar.  

In ancient Kashi, both formal and informal ways of education system existed. Indigenous education given at homes, temples, pathshalas, gurukuls etc. Temples played an important role as a center of learning. The Acharyas provided food to students and treated them as a family member. 5

The first step in establishing a proper educational institution was taken by Maharaja Jai Singh of Amber near Bindu Mahadev Temple built by him in 1585  However, the real step in the direction of establishing formal Educational institution in Kashi was taken in 1791 when Jonathan Duncan the agent of East India Company founded the Sanskrit Pathshala to train the servants of East India Company. It later became the Government Sanskrit College and since 1958 has been raised to the status of Varanaseya Sanskrit Vishvavidyalaya. (Sukul,P).

Guru Nanak too visited Kashi 5 like he visited other Indic places of pilgrimage.

Entrance to Banaras Hindu University. Statue of founder Pt M M Malviya. 

BHU was set up in 1916. Another famous institution is The Kashi Vidya Peeth was set up in 1920 by Babu Shiv Prasad Gupta to provide alternate education arrangement. Central Institute for Higher Tibetan Studies- This University is an autonomous organization by Union Ministry of Culture for studying the Indo-Buddhist Sanskrit Texts that are only found in Tibet.” 

Scholars and revered Gurus like Ramanujacharya, Madhavacharya, Tulsidas and Kabir were enlightened in Kashi. Tulsidas gained knowledge of Sanskrit grammar, Hindu literature and philosophy, four Vedas, six Vedangas, Jyotisha etc from his guru Shesha Santana at Panch Ganga Ghat, Kashi. 2

Because education in Kashi was spread over numerous Acharyas and not consolidated into a Nalanda type of institution, could be a reason why learning in education  in Kashi survived Muslim invasions.

Do visit the Kalal Bhairava Temple

The eight Kala Bhairava temples are located in eight cardinal directions of Kashi, protecting the whole Mandala. These are: Unmat Bhairava, Krodhana Bhairava, Kapala Bhairava, Asitanga Bhairava, Chanda Bhairava, Ruru Bhairava, Bhishana Bhairava and Samhara Bhairava.

Crowds at Tulsi Ghat to experience Nag Nathaiya. By Rishi&Arun.7

Durga Temples and Tirthas of Kashi

Swamiji wrote, “Varanasi has the unique distinction of having separate temples dedicated to all the nine forms of Mother Durga: Shailaputri, Brahmacharini, Chandraghanta, Kushmanda, Skandamata, Katyayani, Kalaratri, Mahagauri, and Siddhidatri, as well as to all the nine manifestations of all the gods and goddesses in their myriad forms.

All the Tirthas too reside in Varanasi. One of the most famous of these tirthas is Kedareshwara. Another important ksetra is the Siddha Kshetra, the’ Field of Fulfillment. Here, above the Scindia Ghat, is the temple of Vireshwara, or ‘Lord of Heroes’. The story of Kashi temples and of pilgrimage to Kashi remains incomplete without a visit to the Kala Bhairava temple, the guardian angel of Kashi. 1

Kedar Ghat.

City of Saints

They were Harishchandra, Sant Kabir, Sant Ravidas , Trsilanga Swami (c.1607-1887) famed for his yogic powers, Swami Bhakarananda Saraswati (1833-1899) was also reputed for his austerity and saintly character. Swami Karpatriji (1907-1982) is more recent figure. 1 Lahiri Mahasya (Grand Guru of Paramhansa Yogananda lived in Kashi)  Story of a Great Yogi, TAILANG SWAMI of Varanasi His temple is a very good place to meditate-powerful.

City of Hindi authors

Bhartendu Harishchandra (849-1882) is known as the father of modern Hindi literature. Jaishankar Prasad (1889-1937) is credited with initiating the chhayavada movement in modern Hindi literature, characterized by romanticism, mysticism, and symbolism. Munshi Premchand (1880-1936) is the penname of Dhanpat Rai, one of the greatest literary figures of modern Hindi and Urdu literature. Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya (1861-1946) was a great patriot, eminent educationist, renowned journalist, prominent social and religious reformer, erudite scholar able parliamentarian and eloquent speaker.” 1

What is the Pañcakrośī yatra?

Sadhguru wrote, “he Panchakroshi Yatra is one of the most significant pada yatras done by pilgrims around the sacred Kashi Mandala. Along this route, there are 108 shrines, to which pilgrims travel by foot. There are five major villages, where pilgrims can rest and stay overnight. Even today, choultries built by kings a few hundred years ago are still intact.

As one travels in a clockwise direction on the Panchakroshi route, all the temples are located on the right side of the road, marking the outer limit of the Panchakroshi sphere.

The Panchakroshi Yatra begins with a dip in river Ganga at Manikarnika Ghat. The first major temple on this route is the Aadhikarmadheshwar temple. The Linga here was consecrated by Sage Karmadeshwar.

In the Kashi Khanda Purana, it is said that yakshas and ganas always lived on the trees and near water bodies. On this route, their shrines have also been placed in the same way.

The second temple on the route is the Bhimachandi mandir. This Durga temple is said to be established by a Gandharva who worshipped Devi here.

The third is Dehali Vinayak temple. This temple is directly in line with the Kashi Vishwanath temple, marking the halfway mark of the yatra. It is said that before entering Kashi, Lord Rama meditated here.

The fourth is the Rameshwaram temple. This temple is said to be a replica of the Rameshwaram temple in southern India. It is situated on the banks of the river Varuna, and marks the northernmost point of the yatra.

It says in the scriptures, that all the lingas of the Kashi Mandala fall under forty-two kinds. In the Kapiladhara temple, all forty-two kinds are there in a single form. The Pasapani Vinayaka and Kapiladhara temples mark the end of the Panchakroshi Yatra.” 3

Think

Can we modernize Kashi without losing its soul?

Kashi is a pilgrimage, not a tourist destination.

Do we need metro city type solutions in Kashi or will local do?

Can we make the Ganga cleaner than it is?

Love and Light

Some Kashi pictures

Celebrations by Telegu speaking brothers on Dev Deepavali.

Pic of Husband/Wife leaving a diya in the Holy Ganga is a very common sight. 

Ahilya Ghat, Kashi.

Kashi is a microcosm of Indian civilisation. Collage by Nayan Marphatia. 

My wife and I performing the “veni-daan” ceremony wrote Siddharth Shetty. The veni represents the three rivers of Ganga, Yamuna and the now extinct Saraswati

Entrance to Kashi Vishwanath Corridor from Ma Ganga side.

Lanes or Galis of Kashi

The famous Kashi Chat Bhandar

Varanasi Saris famous.

Collage of Cruise on the Ganga by Luis Miranda.

Rangbhari is celebrated in Kashi today as the first day of Holi.

Dashashwamedh Ghat was made in 1748 by Peshwa Balaji Bajirao.

Collage of Kashi by Rishi Agarwal

Early morning prayers to Surya, the rising Sun.

Worship of Bhishma Pitama during Dev Deepavali. 

23 Nepal Temple i.e. banks of river Ganga.

Pranams to Ahilyabai Holkar.

Meeting place of rivers Asi and Ganga, called Lolarka famous for its sun temple.

Pranams to Tailanga Swami.  

Let us remember Ahilyabai Holkar’s contribution to reconstruction of the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir. Let us thank Maharaja Ranjit Singh for donating gold to the temple. Let us thank all those involved in the making of the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor. 

References and also read

1. Why is Varanasi a pilgrimage destination

2. Educational Institutions of Kashi: Ancient to Modern Period

3. Kashi – Shiva Tower of Light by Sadhguru

4. Story of a Great Yogi, TAILANG SWAMI of Varanasi

5. Educational System of Kashi: From Vedic to the Modern period by Chandra Prakash Singh

6. Kashi as Kṣetra, Tīrtha, and Mūrti: A Living Indian Knowledge System

7. Varanasi – A Passage to Immortality

8. Maratha Empire - Cultural contributions to the temple town of Varanasi

9. Kashi, Ayodhya, Prayagraj Yatra-A lifetime experience to remember

10. Banarasi Sari

11. Kashi Yatra in the Peshwa period

12. Kashi Tamil Sangam

13. Album Temples of Kashi

14. Wall Paintings of Kashi